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Q:  My horse has a really oily coat during the winter and spring months. He also has a very short forelock, which doesn’t grow. How can I get his coat shiny and healthy and his forelock to grow? - Morgan Freeman
Shelley Nyuli is with Science Pure Nutraceuticals, a Canadian research and manufacturing company that produces natural health and performance supplements.

A: Here are some key questions that a nutritionist would ask:
1) What type of feeding and supplemental program is your horse on?
2) Is the horse being ridden or pastured most of the time?
3) Is the horse fat, a hard keeper or just right in weight?
A short forelock could signal anything from improper diet for the horse’s particular discipline or it could be simply genetic. An oily coat can suggest anything from too much Omega 6 fatty acids (corn oil) in the diet, inadequate digestion or blanketing with an unbreathable material, but it is difficult to diagnose without seeing your horse.
First, I would remove all supplements and diet additives such as beet pulp, oils, and treats for at least two weeks. Then I would start your horse with a glucosamine HCL and MSM-based supplement to promote cellular strengthening, circulation and growth of hoof, mane and forelock. For an amazing coat within three weeks, I would add a milled flax (not ground, boiled or whole flax), at least half a cup to two cups per day, depending on the activity level of the horse. The more activity, the more flax.
It may take several weeks for you to notice a difference in your horse’s coat.

lameness signals pain


Q: When I ride my mare on gravel she has a slight limp. If you ask her to go faster than a trot, she may lope a few strides and then buck. Also, during the summer she was lame for long periods of time. I think it may be her shoulder, but could it also be due to her small hooves? Lane Moore, along with his wife Margie, has owned and operated the Lazy M Ranch near Caroline, AB, for 16 years. Lane is a practicing student of the American Association of Natural Barefoot Practitioners and he works in conjunction with a veterinarian to investigate laminitis, navicular and founder problems.

A: There are many things that this could be, including a training issue. Here are some suggestions:
1) Check for ‘hoof balance.’ You want to make sure that your horse is being trimmed equally on all feet and that she is balanced correctly on all four feet. Discuss this with your farrier.
2) The problem could be coming from a poorly fitting saddle. Pressure above the shoulder blade can cause a restriction of movement to the shoulder on the opposing side of the ‘lame foot’ – thus causing the “lame” foot to carry more weight. Have a professional check your horse’s back – perhaps the horse had a poorly fitting saddle at one time (or presently).
3) If nothing turns up with these two issues, talk to your veterinarian about having an x-ray done as your horse may have navicular problems. Your vet may also be able to assess your horse’s shoulder. 
If it is a hoof issue, it may not be the size of the foot, but how it is trimmed that is the issue.

behavior modification 

 

Q: I recently moved our eight-year-old to a smaller boarding stable with fewer mares and geldings. The first day she would not let us out of sight. The second day she started nipping and biting us. She is currently in a ring by herself until the staff get to know her personality – which is normally very sweet and mild. What could be causing the sudden personality change? - Darlene Anderson, Saskatoon, SK
Kent Williamson, an equine teacher, is a youth Quarter Horse champion, cowboy, professional polo player, and western horse competitor. Kent is internationally known for his effective techniques, true understanding of horse behavior and for the development of his technique, HorseOneship©.

A:  A horse kept in a controlled environment is not blind to the fact that a person provides for its needs and wants. It soon knows that within an unchanging environment, the human brings anything new to it. The horse equates people – the handler – as the agent of change. So to pay attention and follow, or even taunt the one who controls the environment, is a smart way of getting things to happen. 
For example, the mare likely moved you around until you kept retreating or produced some type of reward. Could you be the button to press for something new or even a treat? 
No matter how needy the horse may become, it should not resort to biting people. If it were biting other horses, this would be easily resolved within their social structure.  
You have probably been more compassionate toward her because of the boarding situation and therefore, the mare is learning about you as more interaction occurs. Desirable and undesirable behavior will be the result. Why? Because horses are stimulated and then rewarded in deliberate and accidental ways for their behavior. Often a rider will emphatically say, “I don’t understand where my horse’s nasty habit came from?” This mare has probably learned to want something she doesn’t particularly need. The most effective and efficient way a horse is rewarded is by the release of pressure. I often say, “A horse simply becomes what it is released for!” 
Most likely, the mare developed her biting habit in two ways. The first is through the use of body language between the owner and the mare. The fact that the mare “would not let us out of her sight,” means that the owner was retreating or yielding to the mare’s advances. Secondly, the mare had to be rewarded using either body language and/or with tangible things for being so “sweet,” because a new behavior was formed over the last few episodes. It is even possible that the owner in her compassion for the horse, gave her physical rewards such as treats to compensate for her ill treatment. Both ways likely caused the mare to gain control over the owner and resulted in her biting, making the owner act immediately – or else!  
The mare sees humans as something to easily control. Nip and bite means “Give me something.” Now the question is, how do we change her back to the “sweet and mild” horse she was? Should we now punish the behavior? Should we bite back? What should we do?
Punishment when paired with pain will eliminate a response but it does not replace it with another. So you could bite back and say ‘No,’ but the horse hasn’t learned anything, except what not to do. It is better to replace the biting habit with another desirable behavior. In behavioral learning, this technique is called ‘pairing’ one response with another.
You could try a few simple approaches to handle this mare’s biting issue. If you systematically ignore the nipping or prevent it by not being in the position to be bitten, then the mare will not be rewarded for her behavior and it will diminish. At the same time, I would go one step further and set her up in a learning situation. Put her in a training rope-halter and cause her to do something. For instance, go forward one way, hind-end yield, back up, to basically use any responsive behavior she knows just as or before the nipping starts. Each time she attempts to control the situation, you now advance and tell her what to do and then also retreat; reward her for her response. 
After several trials the biting will diminish and become obsolete. Be patient, training a horse to do something responsive takes time especially when overriding bad behavior. The advantage to teaching what to do, versus only saying no, is that the new behavior will be a lasting and desirable one. Then, you can move onto bigger and better things with your horse.

confidence with cows

 

Q:  My horse and I were scared by a bad fall involving a cow that ran under my horse’s neck and tripped us. How can we gain our confidence back? John Swales is one of Canada ’s top working cow horse trainers. He is a two-time Calgary Stampede Working Cow Horse Champion, has won the Canadian Supreme Working Cow Horse Futurity twice and Open Hackamore three times. He is the esteemed two-time winner of Canada ’s Greatest Cow Horse Competition.


A:  I would begin slowly by working your cow in a closed arena from a distance. Over time you can gradually work in a little bit closer. While you are working, make sure that your horse is paying attention to your cow-side rein and cow-side leg, to ensure he is willingly giving ground – to move away from a cow when you ask.
Make sure your horse continues to pay attention to your rein and leg signals as speed increases. You may practice giving ground and moving in closer with your horse to ensure he’s paying attention. Also, ensure to continuously reinforce your horse’s stop, so that if you get into trouble you can pull your horse off a cow by moving away and

 


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