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Q: I have a horse that is constantly chewing wood. Could she have a deficiency somewhere? Why does she chew so much? - Karen Talmed, Cochrane, AB Marijke van de Water, B.Sc., DHMS is a Homeopathic Practitioner and Equine Health and Nutrition Specialist. She can be reached at rivas@nowcom.ca or call 1-800-405-6643.

A: Some horses can be observed chewing or eating wood, licking dirt, or nibbling on the tails of pasture mates. This behaviour is known as pica, an appetite for non-nutritive substances.
In most cases these horses are looking for one or more minerals that are either not supplied in their feeding programs or are unavailable in their immediate foraging area. These minerals are required for a number of body functions including muscle and organ structure, hormone activity, and adequate digestion. They include calcium, magnesium, zinc, manganese, sulphur, iron, copper, chromium, silica, and iodine.
Since each horse is biochemically unique, the specific mineral deficiency varies between horses. It is therefore best to supply the “ chewing ” horse with a supplement that contains a complex of minerals in a highly absorbable form. This can be supplied by kelp (and/or other types of seaweed) since it contains dozens of minerals in organic form – organic minerals have a higher absorption rate and are more bioactive in the tissues. In most cases the addition of a 1/2 cup of powdered seaweed will stop the craving of nutrients within a few days.
If the “ chewing ” horse is already being fed a mineral supplement, then it must be assumed that the “ missing ” nutrient is either not available or is not being absorbed in adequate dosages, as can happen with inorganic minerals. Salt blocks don ’ t provide adequate amounts of minerals either.
A younger horse can sometimes be observed “ mouthing ” objects in response to teething pains, in which case a calcium supplement should be considered along with homeopathic teething salts.
A wood chewing horse should not be confused with cribbing, which is a condition of wind-sucking – something a horse will do to alleviate stress and/or chronic symptoms of indigestion such as heartburn, reflux, and discomfort. Cribbers require digestive support combined with the appropriate feeding program.

 

Q: My sports medicine boots (for my horse) lose their ‘velcro-ability’ after a few washes. What can I do to keep them clean and stop this from happening? - Karen Foster, Calgary, AB Tom Goode from The Horse Barn, Kamloops BC, sells a full line of sports medicine boots you can find online at www.horsebarncanada.com

A: Taking good care of your sports medicine boots means employing good maintenance from the start. Always “bang out” all the dirt and hair after every use, and let them dry before you put them away. Use a stiff bristled brush – like the brush on your hoof pick – to clean the boots each day. When it comes time to wash them, hand wash with a mild soap such as Woolite or even a horse shampoo. Hang to dry. It’s also a good idea to pick all the hair out of the Velcro® to keep it ‘sticky’ longer.

 

Q: My horse has been showing signs of hind-end lameness. The vets have ruled out any limb injury with x-rays and exams and one suggested that I should have a chiropractor look at him. What is involved in a chiropractic exam and what problems could be happening with his spine? - D. Walter, Butte, MT Dr. Blaine H. Bugg, Calgary, AB, is a Doctor of Chiropractic and an American Veterinary Chiropractic Association (AVCA) trained practitioner. He is also the coordinator of Canadian Pro Rodeo Sports Medicine Team.

A: Hind-end lameness is a very common complaint among horse owners and can be one of the more confusing and frustrating conditions to deal with, as multiple causes can present similar transient symptom patterns. By having your veterinarian rule out pathological causes it is now a very appropriate time to pursue any biomechanical or spinal causes. There is a very high probability that horse has an issue in the lumbar or sacral area of the spine which could benefit from a chiropractic assessment.
Currently, the legislation in the province of Alberta (where I work), states that an equine chiropractor must be supervised by a veterinarian, hence it is in your best interest to have your equine chiropractor and your veterinarian to work together. Your equine chiropractor will begin with a complete chiropractic examination that includes taking a case history, posture analysis, gait analysis, static palpation of the spine, motion palpation, and checking for any differences in temperature over the spine. The goal of a chiropractic adjustment is to decrease pain and muscle spasms in the area of the subluxated joint (the one that is out of alignment or causing the problem), as well as restore proper motion to the affected joint and stimulate neurological reflexes.
Chiropractic adjustments are specific low force adjustments aimed to correct joint misalignments and to restore proper skeletal movement and muscle/nerve function. The movement within these joints is minute and therefore, the adjustments made by the chiropractor will be small but significant. Equine chiropractic adjustments are aimed to adjust one joint at a time and not the entire animal. Adjusting the joints in your horse ’ s back does not require brute strength, mallets or two by fours. A quick precise thrust at the correct angle will allow your small chiropractor to adjust the spine of your large horse. To achieve the correct angle your horse ’ s chiropractor may have to get above your horse ’ s back.
AVCA certified doctors are trained in motion palpation, static palpation, gait analysis and biomechanics as well as specific adjusting techniques developed just for animals. They will use their hands or other specialized equipment to adjust your horse. They have been trained to recognize pathology that may cause chiropractic care to be contraindicated. In these cases AVCA certified doctors will work with your veterinarian in an attempt to help your horse return to health.
You should use the same diligence in selecting your equine chiropractor as you used when selecting your veterinarian. Talk to other horse people who utilize chiropractic care in keeping their horses healthy, get references from the doctor that you are planning to use and finally, be prepared to ask questions.

 

 

Q: I have several creeks running through my property and the banks seem to crumble more each spring. What plants can I introduce to help prevent soil erosion? - Lisa Crouter, Leduc, AB Arvid Aasen, Airdrie, AB, is a Forage and Pasture Agronomist with the Western Forage/Beef Group at Alberta Agriculture, Food and Rural Development.


A: All grasses do a good job of reducing soil erosion but the creeping rooted or rhizomatous grasses may be the best choices. Grasses such as creeping red fescue, smooth bromegrass or Kentucky bluegrass would be very effective at preventing soil erosion alongside creeks. Riparian areas, which is what we call these areas alongside the creeks, are vulnerable to erosion. The grasses growing in these areas generally grow more forage and remain green longer because they have access to more moisture than the upland grasses. Because of this, the livestock prefer to graze and loiter in these areas which creates a problem of overgrazing.
When grasses are always overgrazed, they become less productive as the root system is providing energy to produce the top growth. The lack of top growth does not allow the plant to use the sun ’ s energy through photosynthesis to provide and return energy to the roots. The roots then become shorter and weaker which affects the soil holding capacity of the roots and erosion will occur.
Ideally, these riparian areas should be fenced to control livestock access to these grasses and to the creek itself. Livestock should only be given access to the creek at gravelled access sites, where there is less chance of erosion. In many cases this is not possible and you should look for access sites where there is less chance of erosion. A stock watering system should be developed to keep cattle or horses out of the creek and away from the creek, but this can be expensive and may not be practical.
It may take more than one grazing season to rejuvenate riparian areas but once they become productive again, some type of controlled grazing is possible as long as the grass is allowed sufficient rest periods to maintain a strong, deep and fibrous root system. Planting willows along the creek will also aid in reducing erosion.
It is not the type of grass as much as the management of the grasses that is causing the erosion. It is the “ too soon, too long, too much and too often ” grazing management of riparian areas which leads to erosion.

 

Coldwell Banker

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